How to Choose Jeans: Denim Weight, Wash, Fit and Supplier

Denim weight is quoted in ounces per square yard. Light denim of 8 to 10 oz is soft and suits shirts, ladies' jeans and summer styles. Mid-weight denim of 11 to 12 oz is the everyday jeans standard. Heavy denim of 13 oz and above is stiff, durable and favoured for workwear and raw or selvedge styles. A supplier who quotes only 'denim' leaves the weight, and the cost, to their own choice.

Composition matters as much as weight. Pure cotton denim is rigid and holds its shape; adding 1% to 3% elastane gives stretch and comfort but raises the risk of bagging at the knees and seat, and of shrinking in length if the heat setting is wrong. Ask for the stretch and recovery figures of the fabric, not only the percentage of elastane.

• Rigid 100% cotton: classic five-pocket jeans, workwear, heavy washes.
• Cotton with 1% to 3% elastane: skinny, slim and women's fits.
• Cotton-polyester blends: lower cost and lighter feel, with less colour depth after washing.

The wash decides the look and also most of the quality risk. A rinse or raw wash is the cheapest and the most stable. Stone, enzyme and acid washes, whiskering, grinding and laser finishing add cost and each needs an approved sample, because the lot must match the sample within an agreed shade tolerance.

Jeans shrink, mostly in length. Set the limit in the order: a common target is within about 3% in length and 2% in width after a standard home laundry test. Test methods are ISO 6330 for the washing and drying procedure and AATCC 135 for dimensional change. Colour fastness to rubbing (crocking) and to washing under the ISO 105 series matters on dark indigo, where rubbing off onto light shirts and car seats is the classic complaint.

A fit block is the base pattern for a style. Name it (slim, straight, relaxed) and supply a measurement chart for waist, hip, front rise, thigh, knee, leg opening and inseam with tolerances, usually plus or minus 1 cm on most points. Waist and length sizing differs by market: US and Canada use waist by inseam, Europe uses waist by length in inches, and Gulf and Africa buyers often prefer a simple S to XXL on stretch styles.

The size ratio is how many pieces of each size go in one carton or one order. A typical men's ratio centres on the middle sizes and thins out at both ends. Set the ratio from your own sales history, and ask for it to be packed by ratio so each carton is a ready assortment.

Inspect at the end of production, when at least 80% of the goods are packed, using the AQL method of ISO 2859-1. For jeans most importers use AQL 2.5 for major defects and 4.0 for minor ones. Check measurements against the chart, wash shade against the approved sample, stitching (skipped stitches, open seams, loose threads), hardware (rivets, buttons, zip action) and labels.

• Measure a sample of pieces from each size, not only the middle size.
• Check the zip and button action on every piece in the sample, and the rivet attachment by pulling.
• Check shade and wash difference across cartons, and pack-out by size ratio.
• Ask for the shrinkage test result for the lot, not for the fabric only.

Hurain Garments Exporter is a trading and export company: our jeans are made by partner factories and we handle sampling, inspection, packing, documents and shipping. Because we buy in volume from those factories, prices are competitive and below the average wholesale price.

For jeans we agree the denim mill and weight, the wash, the fit block and the size ratio on a pre-production sample, then inspect the lot against that sample before you pay the balance.

Jeans are folded and polybagged by size, packed in export cartons by size ratio, with your labels, hang tags and barcodes applied at the factory. Cartons are marked with style, size ratio and quantity.

• Minimum order: Typically 1,200–3,000 pieces per style with a ratio of sizes and up to three washes; smaller trial orders are possible on stock designs. A half container or a full container is also possible, as per your requirement.
• Lead time: 45–60 days from approved sample and fabric; 25–35 days on repeat styles.
• Samples: a pre-production sample is approved before bulk; sample and courier costs are normally adjusted against the first order.
• Payment: 50% advance to confirm the order and 50% before dispatch; L/C can be discussed on request.
• Terms and documents: EXW, FOB, CFR or CIF, with commercial invoice, packing list, certificate of origin and bill of lading, plus inspection and test reports on request.
• Different garments can be combined in one consolidated FCL or LCL shipment.